Ferry hopping with a folding bike

The commuter ferries are the archipelago's quiet secret. A day ticket and a folding bike reach more islands than most visitors expect.

Our weekend loop: an early boat out, a gravel road across the first island, a short hop to the next pier and a night in a hostel that serves a proper breakfast.

Check the timetable twice. Late-summer schedules thin out quickly, and the last boat back is earlier than it is in July.